The first time I was in Paris, a few years ago, I pretty much subsisted on confit de canard. To me, life was good if I was tucking into a plateful of crispy-skinned duck leg, with its succulent meat, accompanied by some sauteed potatoes, and maybe some braised red cabbage or a simple green salad. A piece of duck confit might also show up in a dish of cassoulet, though I was more like to have that Stateside at a French restaurant, and never tried it in Paris until this year. The duck confit was never fancy, nor should it be. This is a simple food stuff, as glorious and flavourful as it is, using meat that has been preserved using ancient preservation techniques. Essentially it is duck legs that have been slowly cooked preserved in rendered duck fat - once the meat has cooked in a dutch oven or similar vessel you can store the whole legs in a large jar that has been filled to the brim with the duck fat, which will then solidify and preserve the meat. I've been threatening to actually make my own from scratch for years, though have yet to get around to it. My sister made it very successfully last year at her house, and I know it is just something you need to get around to and invest the time in. To serve you simply take a leg of duck, and scrape as much fat off as you can before grilling, broiling, or pan frying, until it is heated through and the skin gets nice and crispy. Two years ago I had a fanastic meal at Chez Robert & Louise, that favourite haunt of Tony Bourdain groupies and many a Parisian. Dinner that night was six escargots followed by a plate of duck confit and the restaurants excellent sauteed potatoes. I posted a fairly glowing review afterwards on Chowhound, and sent my sister and her husband there a few months later, and was eagerly looking forward to when I might get to visit again.
Continue reading "Where has all the crispy duck confit gone?" »